Some of the walks which surprised me most included those around Garbatella and EUR. The history and presence of fascism so evident in EUR struck me in a truly visceral way; a certain type of scale can have such an impact on the body – instinctively aware of something sinister and in complete opposition to anything human.  It felt totally against the inner reflection experienced in the Pantheon. The presence, history and resurgence of fascism in Rome is something inescapable. It is impossible to think about how to look back at Roman art and Italian history without acknowledging and dealing with it. It was something discussed over dinner, in talks and over drinks in Bar San Callisto.  Dr Lara Pucci’s talk and research on fascist fountains were particularly compelling, as well as Jacopo Benci’s guided tour of Garbatella including a visit to Cesare Battista  school where a bust of Michele Bianchi sits dormant in the corridor

— Stephen Cooper